Travel resumed in earnest last year, and Europe’s biggest luxury brands have started eyeing new and emerging markets. Among the brands that are making their presence felt in India, pé de chumbo, deserves special mention.
Famous for designing and manufacturing woven and knitted fabrics using unique handmade processes, pé de chumbo has been launched in India by AiSPi with the unveiling of their Autumn-Winter Collection. The designs are fun, glamourous, and red-carpet ready — perfect for any special occasion.
Alexandra Oliveira, founder of the brand, talks to us about the crafting techniques, signature elements, and how she has balanced playfulness and sophistication in this collection.
Can you describe the unique handmade processes employed in this collection?
Our fabrics are made using a process that we created and that we have improved and adapted according to the textures we want to create. It is a very manual process inspired by artisanal techniques and the Portuguese ways of making. The pieces are made one by one without seams — the threads create volumes and textures.
What inspired the fun and glamourous theme, and how is it reflected in the design and choice of fabrics?
It was easy for me to adapt the textures since we created the fabrics. This collection is inspired by caretos, which are masked characters for the traditional carnival in the north of Portugal, who wear a fringed costume of coloured wool. Fringes make the pieces fun, and the colours we use make them more classic and glamourous.
Can you share insights into the colour palette and how it complements the party season aesthetic?
I do two or three themes in every collection. There will be casual as well as party wears. The colours follow a standard but differ a little in themes, so that we can capture different markets where colours are very important. Metallics such as gold and some sparkles are always present mainly in the party theme, which you will see a lot in this collection. Gold mixed with white is widely used in several party pieces. We’ve also used neutral tones in the same styles for a more casual look. The choice of colours
is very important because the same silhouette will become attractive to several markets if the colour is right. For example, if in Italy, a shirt is sold in black, the same design will be sold in the Middle East in gold. The same goes for the party clothes. We’re working with AiSPi to find out how the Indian market is going to react and will be customising designs to suit their impeccable taste.
Are there signature elements or details in this collection?
Yes, the way we construct the pieces. Our pieces are constructed without seams, the thread draws the piece almost as if in 3D, which means that the volumes are highlighted by the design, and the textures are more open or closed depending on the shape.
How do you balance the playfulness of the party season with the sophistication required for red carpet events?
I think what makes that difference is the way we combine the look. Some of our dresses can be worn at a beach party with flip-flops for a relaxed look, or on the red carpet with an appropriate hairstyle and make-up and convenient accessories. You can wear it to a pre-wedding party in India. Accessories play a key role in this differentiation.
Price ranges between Rs 35,000 and Rs 60,000.
Available at https://www.aispi.co/.
— manuvipin@newindianexpress.com